Considering a cross-country train adventure? Discover the pros and cons of riding Amtrak’s Empire Builder in a sleeper car. From cozy roomettes to spacious bedrooms, stunning scenery to potential delays, this honest Amtrak review covers it all.

We’ll also explain how to save money using the BidUp program, dining experiences, and tips for making the most of your journey. Perfect for train enthusiasts and curious travelers alike. Find out if the romance of rail travel lives up to the reality on this iconic American route.

The allure of crossing the United States by rail has long been a bucket list travel item for me, one I was thrilled to check off this summer. If riding Amtrak’s Empire Builder is also on your travel bucket list, you deserve to know if the reality of a first class trip in a roomette or room is as romantic as the dream.

As the sun rises over the vast American landscape, Amtrak’s Empire Builder chugs along a 2,206-mile route from Seattle to Chicago. It’s a journey through some of the country’s most spectacular scenery and a chance to slow down and simply enjoy the ride.

From the tiny confines of the roomette to the panoramic views of the observation car, we have opinions on first class in Amtrak’s long distance Empire Builder route. The journey offers undeniable beauty and moments of charm, but it’s impossible to ignore the signs of wear and tear you’ll find when you choose a long-haul Amtrak Trip.

We found the once-gleaming icon of American rail travel to be dated and old, especially in the first class cars. Join us as we unpack the good, the bad, and the delayed, to help you decide if first class in the Empire Builder is truly worth the ticket price.

Amtrak Reviews: What to Expect in a First Class Adventure

In our Amtrak reviews, we explore the highs and lows of Amtrak’s Empire Builder from coach to a first-class experience. We have now traveled on the Empire Builder in three types of accommodations:

• Coach seats with our family from Minneapolis-St Paul to Whitefish – Read our 19 Tips for Traveling in Coach on the Empire Builder
• Cozy roomette from Seattle to Whitefish
• Larger room with private “bathroom” from Whitefish to Chicago

Our experience in all three types of seats on the Empire Builder means we can provide you with first-hand, unbiased Amtrak reviews so you can make a decision about taking this trip too.

We first traveled on the Empire Builder in coach at the end of 2019. Now that we’ve completed our research by also traveling in a first class roomette and room we have updated information on Amtrak in 2024.

In this article, we’ll tell you about our experience in two types of first class accommodations on Amtrak’s Empire Builder: the roomette and the bedroom.

In our previous Amtrak review, we took a deep dive into how to enjoy traveling in coach on the Empire Builder based on a trip we took right before Covid in 2019/2020.

Our Bucket List Amtrak Trip

Our most recent Amtrak journey began with booking a ticket from Seattle to Whitefish. Initially opting for coach for this overnight trip, we were pleasantly surprised to receive an email about Amtrak’s BidUp program. Using this program, we paid extra to switch from coach to a tiny roomette.

For the longer stretch from Whitefish to Chicago, we booked a roomette outright, and then used the BidUp program to move to a larger bedroom. We were eager to compare Amtrak’s two different first class sleeping accommodations.

We booked our travel with two separate tickets because we spent a few days in Whitefish, Montana before continuing our journey to Chicago. It cost us a little more to book the travel this way than it would have if we had stayed on the same train the whole way to Chicago, but we wanted to hop out for a few days and this was the best way we saw to do so.

The Roomette Experience (Seattle to Whitefish)

Our roomette, measuring about 3’6″ by 6’6″, was a study in compact efficiency. By day, it offers two facing seats with a large window. By night, the seats convert into a lower and upper bunk bed. The space was snug (read TINY) but surprisingly comfortable for one person. For two, it requires a certain level of intimacy and coordination.

The roomette includes a small fold-down table, reading lights, and climate controls. A shared bathroom and shower are down the hall. While the privacy was appreciated, the lack of an en-suite bathroom means midnight walks through swaying train cars if you have to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

Pros of the Roomette

• Privacy
• Meals included in dining car
• Access to bathroom and shower shared by everyone in our train car (not very many people)
• Free coffee, water, soda
• Cozy Amtrak blanket for sleeping

Cons of the Roomette

• Temperature controls didn’t really work
• Only one electrical outlet for the two of us in the roomette – I thought this lack of outlets was really dumb.
• Tiny space
• Dirty windows
• My daughter thought the upper bunk bed was not very comfortable.

The Bedroom Experience (Whitefish to Chicago)

Upgrading to a bedroom for the longer stretch was an exciting upgrade! More than twice the size of a roomette, it offers a sofa that converts to a larger bed than you’ll get in the roomette, an upper berth, and – crucially – a private bathroom with shower. The extra space can make a world of difference, allowing travelers to spread out and truly relax.

The bedroom’s larger window could also enhance the sightseeing experience. However, like the roomette, signs of wear were evident, with some fixtures looking tired and in need of refurbishment.

In our bedroom, the extra lounge chair sloped forward which made for uncomfortable seating. That meant only one person could sit close to the window to enjoy the view.

Pros of Amtrak’s Bedroom

• Privacy in a much larger space than the roomette
• Larger bottom bed
• Private bathroom and shower
• Two electrical outlets
• Included meals
• Free coffee, water, soda
• Cozy Amtrak blanket for sleeping

Cons of Amtrak’s Bedroom

• Temperature controls didn’t really work
• Very dated in-room sink area
• Bathroom and shower are so tiny that it was hard to use
• Uncomfortable arm chair seat that could have been a pro, but it slanted oddly
• We thought the bedroom started to stink after a while, I’m guessing from the toilet. I’m not sure if other people have the same experience or not.
• Dirty windows

My Conclusion on Roomette vs Bedroom

Unless I got the bedroom for very little extra money using the BidUp Program like my mom did, or I wanted to be in a room with more than two people, I would stick with the roomette.

I don’t think the extra money justifies the experience in bedroom vs roomette for only two people. The extra space of the bedroom was nice, but the stench toward the end of the trip was not good. Also, the shower was so tiny and awkward that we never did use it.

Condition and Cleanliness of the Train

It’s here that the Empire Builder shows its age most prominently. While not unsafe, many areas of the train looked tired and in need of updating. Cleanliness was inconsistent, with some areas well-maintained and others less so. The windows were a big source of disappointment. It was possible to see out them at times, but sun glares made them impossible to see from.

With a trip that takes a minimum of 45-46 hours and few showering options for people in coach, you can imagine that the train just starts to stink a little bit. I thought this summer trip was significantly stinkier than the trip we took in the winter of 2019 / 2020. There were also a lot more people on this train and it was summer vs. winter.

Maybe that is due to time of year? Different people on the train? I don’t know, but I did notice the smell more on this most recent trip.

Dining and Food Service on Amtrak

No Amtrak reviews are complete without discussing the food! Meals in the dining car were included with our sleeper car tickets. The menu, while not extensive, offers a decent variety including vegetarian options, salads, and entrees.

The quality was generally good, comparable to a casual restaurant rather than fine dining. I would rate it a solid meh: nothing to complain about, but also nothing to really look forward to.

The real treat was sharing tables with other passengers, leading to interesting conversations and a true sense of journey.

Our fist on-train meal was dinner. Dinners are billed as a three course dinner menu, with appetizer, entree, dessert, and also one alcoholic drink. Meals we enjoyed on the train included:

• Amtrak Signature Flat Iron Steak
• Pan Roasted Chicken Breast
• Chicken Ceasar Salad
• Grilled Sandwiches
• French Toast
• Breakfast Omelette
• Desserts

One thing I wasn’t sure about was how to tip the staff since the meals were included. We left tips after each meal – more for dinner than breakfast. I noticed most other passengers left money on their table after meals too, so make sure to bring cash on board for tipping.

On-Board Amenities and Public Spaces

The observation car, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, was something we really looked forward to. For many passengers, it’s the highlight of the public spaces.

While the observation car does offer spectacular views, the windows were really dirty. The space also got a little stinky as the voyage progressed. And it filled up quickly during peak scenic areas making it challenging to find seats.

That said, we loved the views of Glacier National Park, Eastern Montana prairies and the Mississippi River basin. We also liked the tables where we could play cards from time to time. We spent most of our time in our private area but did enjoy taking breaks in the Observation Car.

The Route and Scenery on the Empire Builder

A lot of Amtrak reviews think the Empire Builder’s route is undoubtedly its strongest selling point. We agree! The scenery was spectacular!

Some sites you get to enjoy from the Empire Builder include:

• Cascade Mountains in Washington State
• Glacier National Park in Montana
• Plains of Eastern Montana and North Dakota
• Mississippi River basin in Minnesota and Wisconsin

The changing landscape was captivating and the highlight for me. Crossing over the Mississippi River into LaCrosse was fantastic!

However, I enjoyed the winter views of Glacier more than the summer views. If you decide to book, think about what of views you want!

Amtrak Delays and Disruptions

Amtrak reviews definitely need to address delays and disuptions. Unfortunately, our journey was plagued by significant delays. Weather issues and frequent stops to let freight trains pass meant we arrived in Chicago several hours late.

We slowed to 20 mph for a full four hours on the stretch from Whitefish to Chicago because of high winds and tornadoes in the area. The unseasonably hot weather also meant the train had to slow down at other times too. While the staff handled the situation professionally, it was a frustrating aspect of the trip.

Keeping Track of Where You Are

It was difficult to keep track of our progress while on board. Amtrak used to hand out printed schedules of the route, but they quit doing that sometime ago which frustrated me because wifi was hit and miss.

I finally found a website called the Intercity Rail Map where I could track our train and all other Amtrak trains as well. I took a screenshot so I would know what stops were coming up and also see how late we were.

Keep the Intercity Rail Map URL handy if you want to know what’s going on too.

How to Book First Class on Amtrak’s Empire Builder

You have three choices for traveling in first class on Amtrak: a roomette, bedroom, or a family bedroom. Booking any of these three options is straightforward through Amtrak’s website or app. All you have to do is choose which type of seat you want and pay.

Rooms and roomettes are expensive, but they include all meals and offer a level of privacy that transforms the journey into a vacation in itself. The family bedroom is cheaper than the standard bedroom, but there are very few family bedrooms available which means you have to book them far in advance.

The family bedroom may fit more people, but they do not actually have their own bathroom. We peeked in a family bedroom during our trip to verify this. The people who had stayed in that space the night before were disappointed, but it shows when booking that they have access to the bathroom down the hall, not from their room.

The earlier you book, the more options you have. For the best prices and availability, especially for sleeping accommodations, it’s recommended to book as far in advance as possible. Amtrak typically releases schedules 11 months in advance. However, based on our experience on two trains, there were a lot of empty rooms and roomettes so your mileage may vary.

Amtrak’s BidUp Program

An interesting part of our Amtrak reviews, is the ability for cheap first class tickets using their BidUp Program. The BidUp procedure is a way to pay less for an upgrade, but it’s not guaranteed. However, judging by how many vacant roomettes and rooms we had on our two trains from Seattle to Whitefish and again from Whitefish to Chicago, I think your chances of receiving a BidUp email are pretty good. Here’s how Amtrak’s BidUp Program works.

A few days before your trip, you might get an email from Amtrak with an invitation to participate in BidUp. This invitation allows you to place a bid for an upgrade to a higher class of service, such as from coach to business class or from coach to a roomette or bedroom on long-distance routes.

When placing a bid, Amtrak provides a slider tool that shows a range of possible bid amounts, including a minimum bid. You can adjust your bid within this range. The system also displays your odds of winning the bid, typically shown as “Good,” “Better,” or “Best,” depending on the amount you choose. It’s important to note that while a higher bid increases your chances, it doesn’t guarantee an upgrade.

If your bid is accepted, you’ll be notified, typically 2-3 days before your departure, and your credit card will be charged the bid amount. Your reservation is then automatically updated to reflect the upgrade. If your bid isn’t accepted, you keep your original reservation with no additional charge.

BidUp’s Buy it Now Price

Our BidUp email also had the option to upgrade right away with a price determined by Amtrak. We actually chose this BidUp Program method of upgrading and received our confirmation email right away moving us from coach to a roomette.

Here’s the kicker. Originally, I thought I made a good deal on that upgrade. However, when I reviewed pricing for this article, I realized my BidUp Program price was actually the full booking price and didn’t actually save any money at all. Whoops!

My mother on the other hand, was able to upgrade to a room from her roomette for the buy it now price of only $10, a substantial savings compared to the price she was originally quoted when we first made our reservations.

If you plan to use the BidUp program, I’d recommend keeping track of the price you would have paid at booking for the level of service you want. That way, you’ll know if you’re actually saving money or not.

Now that you’ve read all of our Amtrak reviews, are you inclined to book a sleeper car on the Empire Builder? Will you buy outright or use the BidUp Program?

I’m glad we did it and someday I might like to take the California Zephyr all the way to Los Angles. I’m done with the Empire Builder now, though. From now on, we’ll either fly or drive west. 🙂

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