If you’re interested in trading planes for trains, here’s the story of our family’s first Amtrak Empire Builder experience – in coach! After logging thousands of miles on trains with my family of six, including two memorable trips on the Amtrak Empire Builder, I’m excited to share what you need to know about this iconic train journey.

 

As a family travel writer who’s experienced multiple long-distance Amtrak routes with kids, I’ve learned exactly what makes train travel work (and what doesn’t) for families. I’m happy to share those tips with you!

My family has been on numerous Amtrak adventures, including:

• Round trip in coach on the Empire Builder (Minneapolis to Whitefish)
• One way in sleeper cars on the Empire Builder (Seattle to Chicago)
• California Zephyr from Iowa to Denver
• Multiple day trips from Illinois and Iowa to Chicago

Our most fun Empire Builder journey was a holiday adventure from Minneapolis-St. Paul to Whitefish, Montana, departing December 23rd and returning January 2nd. This winter experience gave us a whole new perspective on train travel!

Why Trains? A Family Travel Writer’s Perspective

After several long-distance train journeys with four children in tow, I’ve become something of an evangelist for rail travel.

We’ve crossed Iowa on the California Zephyr, made countless trips to Chicago, and, for the second time, we road the legendary Empire Builder again this summer. Each trip has taught me something new about the art of slow travel and the joy of the journey itself.

I would love to see the United States make high speed rails a priority, because, while it’s fun now, it could really be a great way to travel.

Trading Holiday Rush for Railroad Romance

When we decided to spend Christmas week in Whitefish, Montana, the usual calculus of family travel took on new complexity. Flying six people during peak holiday season was financially prohibitive. Driving would mean navigating potentially treacherous winter roads. The Empire Builder offered a different way—one that turned travel time into family time.

Riding Amtrak on December 23rd also gave us an unexpected Christmas gift: a nearly empty train car. As other families rushed through crowded airports, we spread out across our coach seats, and leisurely watched America’s northern landscape as we rolled west.

Our Christmas Amtrak Journey

We chose to drive five hours to catch the train in Minneapolis-St. Paul rather than departing from Chicago, and I’m so glad we did! Not only did we save money on parking ($2/day compared to Chicago’s steep rates), but we also had an easier boarding experience. Pro tip: the Union Depot in St. Paul has excellent parking facilities and a much calmer atmosphere than Chicago’s Union Station.

The Journey West

Our westbound trip started at 10:20 PM, which worked perfectly for getting the kids to sleep right away. We had an unexpected Christmas Eve treat – the train was surprisingly empty, and we had almost an entire car to ourselves! While this isn’t typical (I know from our previous trips), it made the holiday journey extra special. We even got free desserts in the dining car thanks to all six of us wearing our ugly Christmas sweaters.

The Return: January 2nd

The eastbound journey gave us spectacular winter views of Glacier National Park during daylight hours – something you miss on the westbound route in winter. However, we did experience an 8-hour delay due to a freight train incident on a mountain pass.

We were lucky because we could just continue hanging out with our friends in Whitefish while waiting for the train to arrive. The delay was a little annoying, but it was also ok.

I highly recommend setting no hard deadlines on either side of your Amtrak trip so that delays don’t become too stressful.

Practical Tips for Families on the Empire Builder

Sleeping in Coach – Tips for Families

Let me be honest – sleeping in coach isn’t luxury hotel comfort, but it’s definitely doable. On our December trip, we developed a great system:

• Kids brought their own small blankets and travel pillows
• We dressed in comfortable layers (the temperature can vary)
• Everyone had warm socks and slip-on shoes for bathroom trips
• Eye masks helped with the occasional bright lights at stations

Our Family’s Packing Strategy

After multiple long-distance train trips, here’s what I’ve found essential for family train travel:

• Individual backpacks for each child with their own entertainment
• A parent bag with important documents and basic first aid
• Separate bag with change of clothes easily accessible
• Power bank for devices (though seats do have outlets)
• Card games and small board games for the observation car

Meal Planning with Kids

Food can make or break a long journey with children. Here’s what worked for us:

• Purchased some treats from the cafe car (the hot chocolate was a hit!) along the route.
• Packed breakfast items to save money
• Planned one meal per day in the dining car as an “experience”
• Brought plenty of non-messy snacks

Best Time to Travel: A Seasonal Perspective

Having experienced the Empire Builder in different seasons, here’s my take:

• Winter (this trip): Stunning snow scenes, especially eastbound through Glacier
• Spring (our first overnight trip on the California Zephyr): moderate temperatures, but it was dark for most of our trip
• Summer (Empire Builder in a sleeper car experience): Longest daylight for sightseeing hot weather meant long delays
• Fall: Beautiful colors, have only taken short trips to Chicago in the fall

Common Questions I Get Asked about Amtrak

Is it Really Worth Taking Kids on Such a Long Train Ride?

Absolutely! Our kids have consistently rated train travel as one of their favorite vacation experiences. The freedom to move around, the changing scenery, and the sense of adventure make it much more enjoyable than long car rides or flights.

How Do You Keep Kids Entertained Without WiFi?

This was a blessing in disguise! Our kids played cards in the observation car, watched downloaded movies, read books, and actually engaged in conversation with us and other passengers. The lack of consistent WiFi helped us focus on the journey itself.

What’s the Best Seating Strategy for Families?

From experience, I recommend:

• Booking upper level for better views and access to observation car
• Trying to get seats facing each other if possible
• Avoiding the very front or back of the car (near doors/bathrooms)

How Do You Handle Delays with Kids?

After experiencing several significant delays, including our recent 8-hour delay returning from Whitefish, I’ve learned to:

• Pack extra snacks and activities
• Build buffer time into our schedule
• Stay positive – kids feed off parent energy
• Use delays as opportunities to explore longer stops

Is Coach Really Okay for Overnight Travel?

While we considered sleeper cars, coach worked well for our family budget on this particular trip. The seats recline significantly more than airplane seats, and kids generally sleep better than adults. That said, don’t expect perfect sleep – think of it as part of the adventure!

How Reliable is the Empire Builder Schedule?

The Empire Builder experiences frequent delays due to sharing tracks with freight trains and weather conditions. Plan for potential delays of 1-8 hours and avoid scheduling tight connections at your destination.

Can You Bring Your Own Food and Drinks?

Yes, passengers can bring their own food and drinks. While technically you should consume personal food in the observation car rather than at your seat, this rule is loosely enforced. Alcohol purchased on board can be consumed anywhere on the train.

What’s Included in Coach Class Tickets?

Coach tickets include:

• Reclining seat with footrest
• Access to observation car
• Access to dining car (meals extra)
• Free baggage check (2 bags)
• Power outlets at seats

What are the Train Bathrooms Like?

The two downsides to the Empire Builder would have to be sleeping in the seats and the bathrooms. While the bathrooms aren’t terrible, they aren’t all that great either. Think airline toilets, but not as nice. 

They are small and cramped and sometimes overflowing with trash. The good news is there are five or six toilets per train car, so it’s usually pretty easy to find an open one. The bad news is, they aren’t always very clean.

There’s also a lounge bathroom on each car that includes a seating area, a larger sink with a stool and a separate toilet. This is where you probably want to go in the morning to clean up and get ready for the day. It’s a nice sized area, but the door to the sink area doesn’t lock which I think is strange.

What to Pack for your Trip on Amtrak Empire Builder

• Snacks – you can buy snacks in the lounge car, but you can also bring your own favorites which I highly recommend. Technically, you’re not supposed to eat food you bring on board at your seat, but everyone does. Instead you’re supposed to eat your own food in the sightseeing car.
• Drinks – According to Amtrak, you may BYO if you’re staying in a sleeper car but “private stock alcoholic beverages may not be consumed in public areas.” Alcoholic beverages are for sale on the train and can be consumed anywhere, but in our experience, discretion works pretty well too if you happen to bring your own.
• Toiletries – if you’re sitting in a coach you won’t be able to shower, but that doesn’t mean you can’t clean up. Bring your toothbrush and toothpaste, cleansing wipes, deodorant, and any makeup that you may want to wear.
• Change of clothes – I’m sure you won’t want to wear the same clothes the entire 48 hours if you’re on the train that long! Make sure you have easily accessible clothing to change into and / or sleep in! 
• Light blocking eye mask – If you’re sensitive to light, you may want to pack an eye mask. There are curtains on the windows, but there’s still a little light. 
• Same with noise – if you’re sensitive to noise, bring noise canceling headphones or ear plugs too. It’s pretty quiet on the train, but sometimes you can hear the train horn, and when other trains pass, it is very loud and startling. 
• Slippers – it’s pretty gross to sit around in your bare feet in public areas, so I highly recommend that you bring a pair of socks and some slippers for walking if you won’t want to wear your shoes all the time.
• Electronics, charging cords, camera. Amtrak is nicely equipped with 120 volt plugins at each seat so charging your devices is no problem if you have your cords!
• Small games – some of our favorites include  a deck of cards, Sushi Go, Dutch Bliss, and uno.
• Reading material: Books, magazines. Wifi is not always available so make sure you have other things to do as well.

How to Book a trip on the Amtrak Empire Builder

Are you convinced that a trip on the Amtrak Empire Builder is for you? Here’s how to make that happen!

It’s really easy to book your trip on Amtrak’s website, but be prepared to do some research to figure out what to book. Options are often more limited with fewer trains than airplanes so you will have to be flexible.  

Also, the further in advance you book, the cheaper your tickets will be. Plan far in advance when booking Amtrak to get the best price.

For more family fun travel posts, read these:

Family Fun at the Grove Resort Orlando

Top 11 Secrets to Planning a Trip to Walt Disney World on a Budget

Fun, Affordable Family Skiing at Sunlight Mountain Resort